Installing Ceramic Tile

When installing ceramic tile in a shower it is essential that you starts with the proper foundation. The foundation should consist of cement board such as wonder board or durock on the walls and a rubber membrane liner on the shower floor, if the shower floor is to be tiled also.

Cement board is resistant to water and is an ideal material for installing ceramic tile to in high moisture locations such as shower enclosures or bathtubs. Cement board can be hung directly onto wall studs however remember that galvanized nails or screws should be used.

Fiberglass mesh tape should be used on the cement board joints when installing ceramic tile adhesive in the installation process.

When installing ceramic tile on the floor of a shower enclosure it is important to remember that a waterproof continuous membrane should be applied to the plywood prior to the installation of the cement board on the walls. The water proof membrane should extend up the walls for at least 6 inches underneath the cement board.

Installing Ceramic Tile-Shower Floor Membrane

A layer of mortar should be laid onto the membrane and angled to slope towards the drain to prevent water pooling on the shower floor. This layer can be either beneath or above the membrane, however if the membrane is installed directly onto the plywood it is imperative that any sharp edges or grit that could cause membrane failure are attended to before membrane installation.

There are a few of types of shower pan membrane liners available, with each having their own benefits. Regardless of the membrane material chosen, the installer needs to form and fold the material into the base of the shower area and secure it to the sides of the shower wall frame with staples or nails. Also an opening in the membrane should be cut out to allow the adjustable shower drain assembly to slip through.

When the shower floor membrane has been installed, the lower cement board should then be installed onto the wall studs over it being careful not to puncture the membrane with the fixings for the cement board.

After the cement board is completely installed, a final coat of mortar needs to be applied on top of the shower floor membrane to protect it and to provide a solid base for installing ceramic tile onto.

Installing Ceramic Tile-Grouting

Now that the floor membrane, angled mortar bed and cement board are all complete the project is ready for installing ceramic tile that any professional would be proud of.

After installing ceramic tile and taking care of all necessary grouting, the shower drain assembly will need to be adjusted to allow the drain to sits flush with the finished ceramic tile floor.

Bathroom Floor Tiles

This article is intended to help a homeowner or DIY enthusiast through the steps of installing bathroom floor tiles in a professional manner. Remember that if you are going to be doing over the bathroom floor you will need to take up your tile, sheet vinyl, or ceramic tile and underlayment before you start installing your new bathroom floor tiles.

It is imperative that you make sure there are no signs of water damage to the sub-flooring and check to see if it is solid throughout.

When laying down a new floor the main question is always can I install my new bathroom floor tiles over the existing floor or do I have to pick up the old one first?

Bathroom Floor Tiles-Leveling

If the floor is level and sound you can usually just tile right over it with plastic or vinyl flooring, but keep in mind how mush room you have for the bathroom door, door frame and wall molding (if any) -you may have to open or close the door from time to time!

If the underlayment is solid but not quit level you can use leveling embossers (like mortar) to fill-in low spots to make a level surface, otherwise place a new ¼ underlayment over it, if you can.

I have seen home owners fix it up with thin plain wood strips – don’t do it! All materials must be water and moisture resistant as possible. Always use at least a 3ft level to insure surface is not slanted in any way.

For a typical ground level home like a ranch with no basement, floor foundations are framed, meaning the floor sits on joists with 2-bys (stills) running perpendicular to the joists along the foundation.

Support columns (Lally Columns) at or near the center of the joists help in support, above the framing lays the sub-floor, typically a 3/4 tongue and groove particle board, plywood or similar material. Above that there is a1/4 plywood or cement board (moisture resistant) that’s called the underlayment and may also have a sheet of roofing felt or similar material for added cushioning.

Take extra caution when laying underlayment over the sub-flooring because the floor may crack if the seems match up so it’s best to stagger the seams.

Bathroom Floor Tiles-Ceramic

Ceramic tile because this type of tiling has become popular in kitchens, bathrooms, halls and even living rooms for its durability and style, I want to devote this section on the subject. Installing ceramic tiles in the bathroom will alter the height of fixtures like toilets, vanity sinks and cabinets as well as the door and adjoining room it is best to remove everything and start from scratch.

This means removing the old underlayment as well. You have to create a level surface or the tiles will crack or break. Most ceramic floor tile is ¼ thick so you will have up to ¾ added to the old floor assuming you had plastic tile or vinyl to begin with. You will be offsetting the height of the old fixtures and the door so a bit of trimming may be necessary (If you are replacing fixtures-no problem).

Bathroom Floor Tiles-Installation

The following steps should be followed for excellent results when installing bathroom floor tiles:

• Using a 3/ft level check if the floor even throughout.
• Lay out a row of tiles, with spacers (cross shaped inserts for grout lines) along the length and width of the room to gauge how many tiles you are using. This is also to see how many tile cuts you will have to make near walls.
• Lay down cement board, cut to fit area and use a small layer of mortar to attach board to sub-flooring. Use screws every 6 to 8 inches along the edges of board to secure in place. Use mesh tape over the seams and cover with a thin layer of mortar.
• Using a trowel apply mortar about every 3 1/2 at a time and use smooth even strokes.
• Set the full ceramic tiles at a point furthest from doorway and press down firmly,tapping it with a rubber mallet so it spreads evenly. Have the cut tiles ready so as you move away from the wall place and set as you go.
• Insert cross shaped spacers on end between each tile to insure rows are even. At corners lay spacers flat and butt tiles at the angles (don’t worry, it will be same with). You can also stand the spacers upright against walls.
• When you get to the closet flange (toilet hole in floor) you will need a tile nipper or tile saw to cut a partial circle. Do this for all sides and lay tile down as before. You must do this also for sinks and cabinets.
• When all the tiles are down you must wait a least one day for it to set properly – this is an important step before you put down the grout. When ready, mix tile grout to cover about ¼ of the room at a time, this will give you time to do to right. Take out the cross spacers and apply grout with a grout float, then holding float at an angle squeeze off excess grout. Do this with step with the rest of the room.
• The last step is to dampen a clean sponge with water and wipe the access grout off of the bathroom floor tiles, rinsing the sponge often.